Fashion for Muslims in Dolce & Gabbana
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/jan/11/dolce-gabbana-hijab-collection-muslim-women-western-fashion
https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/dolce-and-gabbana-hijab-and-abaya-collection
https://www.huffpost.com/entry/the-problem-with-dgs-abay_b_14086242
Dolce & Gabbana launched its first collection aimed at its Muslim consumers with a range of Abayas and Hijab's in its signature colourful prints. These include D&G's staple prints including flowers, fruits and polkadots constructed in silk, while others are neutral lace and satin, all demonstrating the femininity the brand has built its name on.
A growing number of luxury brands are targeting the muslim market particularly as growth in the Arab world outpaces that in Asia and Russia. Labels now create Ramadan collections, as the religious celebration gains recognition as a time of increased retail activity for Muslim consumers.
D&G seems to recognise Muslim fashion, and want to profit from it too. But as the prominent British Muslim fashion blogger and designer Dina Torkia recently wrote " O dreamed of being included in the mainstream of haute couture, and whilst D&G have managed to recognise us with this collection, they've also managed to exclude us all."
"It is quite difficult for me to feel excited and grateful for a fashion lie that supposedly caters to me and the requirements of my faith, when it feels as though the overwhelming message is that the only desirable Muslim is a wealthy one; that Muslim fashion is acceptable, but only when legitimised by a major western fashion label. Ultimately western society will always have the monopoly on what is fashionable and relevant."
"It would be great to see some of these abayas pared down for school drop offs and D&G signature gowns "Muslimified" for our formal events. The D&G collection maybe be appropriate for Eid, but we exist the other 11 months of the year. And some of us cant afford couture."
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stefana Gabbana debuted the hashtag, dgabaya, on his Instagram and it created a stir on social media. It gained mixed reviews as some applauded the brand for diversity and some that criticised it for blatantly commercialising the Hijab.
Forbes noted it was D&G's 'smartest move in years' when they launched a new collection of Abaya's and headscarves. For some Muslim women their is nothing noteworthy about this line at all. A calculated business move devoid of any real intention to change the fashion world to be more inclusive of its Muslim audience.
The models that show the collection in the ad campaigns are all white, non-middle Eastern, non-Muslim women. D&G are monopolising something that doesn't belong to them. They are profiting from the insincere incorporation of a cultural and religious piece of clothing for their line that normally they would take offense to and would label as an oppressive uniform.
The majority of Western world women would consider the abaya and headscarf as items of clothing that supposedly rid women of their personal agency. The argument when it comes to the dress choice of Muslim women, yet when you add crystals to the sleeves, stitch lace to the fringes and stamp your name, label and price tag on it, it's seen by the mainstream media as "fashionable", "beautiful" and not "oppressive" or "backwards".
Another problem that the fashion house is posing with its new collection is the marring line between the Middle Eastern consumer vs the Muslim consumer. The two are not the same but according to D&G culture and faith are the same thing. It's clear that the fashion line is being marketed to the wealthy of the Middle Easterners states opposed to the millions of Muslims living in the other parts of Asia, Africa, Eastern Europe and the West.
Why are people so taken back by d&g's move?
Why is there no mainstream or high end coverage or inclusion of the thousands of British or North American Muslim fashion bloggers and designers that have been pushing for inclusivity and representation for years?
Why does no one talk about how Muslim women are already fashioning their abaya's and headscarfs in highly creative ways?
Why has D&G reduced Muslim women to just abaya's and headscarfs?
Why is there no effort to create and incorporate more innovative and varied pieces that Muslim women can choose to wear?
NY magazine said "what stands out in particular about D&G's take is that it gives the lie to the idea that one cant follow trends and have fun with fashion whilst also following a religious dress code". They also mentioned that "'modest' doesn't have to equate to dowdy, boring or head to toe neutrals. It's not just about lowering hemlines and extending sleeves, but preserving the runway aesthetic that got everyone so excited in the first place." As offensive as that sounds, apparently "modest" fashion in the eyes of the high end fashion 'experts' seems to be synonymous with "boring" and "dowdy". This is the problem because in reality its quite the contrary, but D&G presents a case that suggests that without these Western labels, Muslim fashion is boring.
Ibtihaj Muhammed's piece, its far from boring. "We are the ones that can anticipate our needs and tastes, not some multi billion corporation that's never cared about us until today". This subtle propaganda distorts the narrative that some Muslim women in the fashion industry are trying so hard to engage in and change.
Dina Torkia, a British Muslim fashion blogger who last year launched her own line of scarves and modest Western clothes that she designed herself, took to her website earlier this week to express her frustration:
" I feel like I should be happy, ecstatic even, perhaps eternally grateful? That's what seems to be the general reaction to this news so far. But, I can't help but feel incredibly underwhelmed, possibly even a tiny bit insulted by the collection. I've dreamed the day a major design house would recognise us, hijab clad muslim women and finally 'cater' to us. But my dream wasn't' resulting in a line of lacey, embroidered traditional abayas and matching scarves. Something I've grown up with and a look that every muslim women is all too familiar with. Something the local 'abaya r us' in Brummy might have. Or if you fancy something a little more luxury, 'abaya gold' in Dubai would suffice. I dreamed of being able to look at a signature gown on the runway and imagine myself in one, hijab and all. I dreamed of being included in the mainstream of haute couture and whilst D&G have managed to recognise us with this collection, they've also managed to exclude us. Fashion conscious Muslim women in the form of bloggers, designers and stylists have been taking centre stage for a good few years showing the world modesty and style can coincide with faith. With barely a nod of applaud or recognition, until D&G fancies putting their stamp all over a very traditional middle eastern style and claim its originality. So thank you, but no thank you."
Just as the world is celebrating what might seem like Muslim inclusion with D&G's new line, they also fail to acknowledge the fact that we've been once again, excluded and marginalised by the Western man under the guise of their progressive thinking. If you take the brands name of the abaya and hijabs, you'd be left with what is already in the market but is never acknowledged or celebrated to the same degree. Muslims need true representation and inclusion in the fashion industry and that will not happen because two Italian billionaire designers decided to start selling overpriced abaya's and hijabs in 2016. It will happen when mainstream media and fashion platforms actually listen to and engage with Muslim women and Muslim designers and models instead of stamping their own name on what we've been seeing forever.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/dolce-and-gabbana-hijab-and-abaya-collection
https://www.huffpost.com/entry/the-problem-with-dgs-abay_b_14086242
Dolce & Gabbana launched its first collection aimed at its Muslim consumers with a range of Abayas and Hijab's in its signature colourful prints. These include D&G's staple prints including flowers, fruits and polkadots constructed in silk, while others are neutral lace and satin, all demonstrating the femininity the brand has built its name on.
A growing number of luxury brands are targeting the muslim market particularly as growth in the Arab world outpaces that in Asia and Russia. Labels now create Ramadan collections, as the religious celebration gains recognition as a time of increased retail activity for Muslim consumers.
D&G seems to recognise Muslim fashion, and want to profit from it too. But as the prominent British Muslim fashion blogger and designer Dina Torkia recently wrote " O dreamed of being included in the mainstream of haute couture, and whilst D&G have managed to recognise us with this collection, they've also managed to exclude us all."
"It is quite difficult for me to feel excited and grateful for a fashion lie that supposedly caters to me and the requirements of my faith, when it feels as though the overwhelming message is that the only desirable Muslim is a wealthy one; that Muslim fashion is acceptable, but only when legitimised by a major western fashion label. Ultimately western society will always have the monopoly on what is fashionable and relevant."
"It would be great to see some of these abayas pared down for school drop offs and D&G signature gowns "Muslimified" for our formal events. The D&G collection maybe be appropriate for Eid, but we exist the other 11 months of the year. And some of us cant afford couture."
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stefana Gabbana debuted the hashtag, dgabaya, on his Instagram and it created a stir on social media. It gained mixed reviews as some applauded the brand for diversity and some that criticised it for blatantly commercialising the Hijab.
Forbes noted it was D&G's 'smartest move in years' when they launched a new collection of Abaya's and headscarves. For some Muslim women their is nothing noteworthy about this line at all. A calculated business move devoid of any real intention to change the fashion world to be more inclusive of its Muslim audience.
The models that show the collection in the ad campaigns are all white, non-middle Eastern, non-Muslim women. D&G are monopolising something that doesn't belong to them. They are profiting from the insincere incorporation of a cultural and religious piece of clothing for their line that normally they would take offense to and would label as an oppressive uniform.
The majority of Western world women would consider the abaya and headscarf as items of clothing that supposedly rid women of their personal agency. The argument when it comes to the dress choice of Muslim women, yet when you add crystals to the sleeves, stitch lace to the fringes and stamp your name, label and price tag on it, it's seen by the mainstream media as "fashionable", "beautiful" and not "oppressive" or "backwards".
Another problem that the fashion house is posing with its new collection is the marring line between the Middle Eastern consumer vs the Muslim consumer. The two are not the same but according to D&G culture and faith are the same thing. It's clear that the fashion line is being marketed to the wealthy of the Middle Easterners states opposed to the millions of Muslims living in the other parts of Asia, Africa, Eastern Europe and the West.
Why are people so taken back by d&g's move?
Why is there no mainstream or high end coverage or inclusion of the thousands of British or North American Muslim fashion bloggers and designers that have been pushing for inclusivity and representation for years?
Why does no one talk about how Muslim women are already fashioning their abaya's and headscarfs in highly creative ways?
Why has D&G reduced Muslim women to just abaya's and headscarfs?
Why is there no effort to create and incorporate more innovative and varied pieces that Muslim women can choose to wear?
NY magazine said "what stands out in particular about D&G's take is that it gives the lie to the idea that one cant follow trends and have fun with fashion whilst also following a religious dress code". They also mentioned that "'modest' doesn't have to equate to dowdy, boring or head to toe neutrals. It's not just about lowering hemlines and extending sleeves, but preserving the runway aesthetic that got everyone so excited in the first place." As offensive as that sounds, apparently "modest" fashion in the eyes of the high end fashion 'experts' seems to be synonymous with "boring" and "dowdy". This is the problem because in reality its quite the contrary, but D&G presents a case that suggests that without these Western labels, Muslim fashion is boring.
Ibtihaj Muhammed's piece, its far from boring. "We are the ones that can anticipate our needs and tastes, not some multi billion corporation that's never cared about us until today". This subtle propaganda distorts the narrative that some Muslim women in the fashion industry are trying so hard to engage in and change.
Dina Torkia, a British Muslim fashion blogger who last year launched her own line of scarves and modest Western clothes that she designed herself, took to her website earlier this week to express her frustration:
" I feel like I should be happy, ecstatic even, perhaps eternally grateful? That's what seems to be the general reaction to this news so far. But, I can't help but feel incredibly underwhelmed, possibly even a tiny bit insulted by the collection. I've dreamed the day a major design house would recognise us, hijab clad muslim women and finally 'cater' to us. But my dream wasn't' resulting in a line of lacey, embroidered traditional abayas and matching scarves. Something I've grown up with and a look that every muslim women is all too familiar with. Something the local 'abaya r us' in Brummy might have. Or if you fancy something a little more luxury, 'abaya gold' in Dubai would suffice. I dreamed of being able to look at a signature gown on the runway and imagine myself in one, hijab and all. I dreamed of being included in the mainstream of haute couture and whilst D&G have managed to recognise us with this collection, they've also managed to exclude us. Fashion conscious Muslim women in the form of bloggers, designers and stylists have been taking centre stage for a good few years showing the world modesty and style can coincide with faith. With barely a nod of applaud or recognition, until D&G fancies putting their stamp all over a very traditional middle eastern style and claim its originality. So thank you, but no thank you."
Just as the world is celebrating what might seem like Muslim inclusion with D&G's new line, they also fail to acknowledge the fact that we've been once again, excluded and marginalised by the Western man under the guise of their progressive thinking. If you take the brands name of the abaya and hijabs, you'd be left with what is already in the market but is never acknowledged or celebrated to the same degree. Muslims need true representation and inclusion in the fashion industry and that will not happen because two Italian billionaire designers decided to start selling overpriced abaya's and hijabs in 2016. It will happen when mainstream media and fashion platforms actually listen to and engage with Muslim women and Muslim designers and models instead of stamping their own name on what we've been seeing forever.
Comments
Post a Comment